Carmine Superiore: the medieval village above Cannobio
Accessible only on foot, with medieval frescoes and views over the lake
Carmine Superiore – a village without a road
High above the lake
You don’t have to travel far from us to feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Around three kilometres south of Cannobio, Carmine Superiore sits on a rocky outcrop high above the lake. The small village belongs to Cannobio and is still accessible only on foot. There is no road and no cars, just a paved path, many steps and old stone houses with views over Lake Maggiore.
Carmine Superiore at a Glance
- Location: on a rocky outcrop above the western shore, around 3 km south of Cannobio
- Journey from Lakeview: a few minutes to Carmine Inferiore, then around 15 minutes on foot uphill
- Highlights: San Gottardo church with frescoes, medieval village centre, Via delle Genti
- Cannobio–Cannero hike: 7.5 km, approx. 350 metres elevation gain, 2½ hours, return by boat
- Time needed: 2 to 4 hours, depending on route
- Suitable for: hikers, families with older children, history enthusiasts
- Admission: none, donation for the light in the church
A Village as Refuge
Carmine was founded around the year 1000 as a fortified hamlet. The location on the rock was no accident: from here, the route to Cannobio could be monitored, and in uncertain times, people from the surrounding area found shelter behind the walls. Around the village, residents built terraces and dry-stone walls where chestnuts, vines and vegetables grew. You can still see many of these walls today as you walk up the slope.
After the First World War, families gradually moved down to the valley, where there was work and roads. The last permanent residents left Carmine in the 1930s. Today, many houses have been lovingly restored and are used as holiday and weekend homes. Please bear this in mind as you walk through the lanes: people live behind these walls.
The Ascent from Carmine Inferiore
The path begins in the hamlet of Carmine Inferiore on the lakeside road between Cannobio and Cannero Riviera. There is a small car park in front of the few houses. The start is next to a house and is marked in red and white. At first, it climbs steeply over steps, then along a paved path and partly over bare rock. After about a quarter of an hour, you’ll be standing in the village, at around 300 metres altitude and a good 100 metres above the lake.
San Gottardo and Its Frescoes
The heart of the village is the church of San Gottardo. It was built in the 14th century and set into the rock on several levels. Its late Romanesque bell tower can be seen from the lake. Frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries are preserved inside and out. On the outer wall, you’ll see saints, bishops and the Adoration of the Magi.
During the plague of 1630, the church served as a refuge for the sick. Afterwards, the walls were disinfected and whitewashed with lime, and the frescoes disappeared for around 300 years. They only came to light again during restoration work in 1932 and 1933, with further restoration around the year 2000. If the church is closed, look inside through a glass window. For a small donation, the light inside comes on.
On the Via delle Genti to Cannero
Carmine lies on the Via delle Genti, an old connecting route that once linked the towns on the upper Lake Maggiore with Switzerland. It ran from Intra via Locarno to the Magadino plain and on towards the Gotthard. Today, the route is a hiking trail with yellow signs and red-and-white markings.
The section from Cannobio to Cannero Riviera is around 7.5 kilometres long with about 350 metres of elevation gain. The pure walking time is two and a half hours; with breaks, you should allow half a day. The path begins in the old town of Cannobio, passes Palazzo Pironi and climbs through Casali and Solivo through chestnut forest to Molineggi, the highest point at around 500 metres. The name recalls the old mills by the stream. A small church, a stone bridge and sculptures made from old farming tools still stand there. After that, the path descends along the stream with small waterfalls to Carmine Inferiore and up the steps to Carmine Superiore.
Beyond the village, forest paths lead past ruins, and you’ll see down to the Castelli di Cannero in the lake. Via Cheggio, you finally reach Cannero. Take care when crossing the main road at Cheggio: cars come quickly round the bend. Use the zebra crossing a little further to the right.
Cannero Riviera and Back by Boat
Cannero Riviera holds the Bandiera Arancione from the Touring Club Italiano. The town has a beautiful lakeside promenade with cafés and an old harbour carved into the rock. Citrus fruits have been growing outdoors here for centuries. In the Parco degli Agrumi, lemon and orange trees stand in rows, and every year in March an exhibition showcases the town’s citrus fruits.
You can return to Cannobio by boat with Navigazione Lago Maggiore. Depending on the connection, the journey takes 20 to 45 minutes; some boats travel via Luino. Timetables change with the season, so check the schedule beforehand. If you prefer to walk, it’s about 50 minutes from Carmine to Cannero and around 1 hour 20 minutes back to Cannobio.
With Children and in Summer
Families with older children will enjoy an outing here where movement and history come together. The paths are not suitable for pushchairs—there are many steps and stony sections, and in some places it’s steeply downhill. Much of the route runs through chestnut forest, but in summer it’s still best to start early. There is hardly any infrastructure at the top, so bring water and a small snack. Long clothing and insect repellent help against mosquitoes in the forest.
A Loop via Oggiogno and Viggiona
If you haven’t had enough in Cannero, you can add a second loop above the town or do it on another day. It leads up to the mountain villages of Oggiogno, Cheglio and Viggiona. In Oggiogno, an old wine press still stands, a large press from the time when wine was grown on these slopes. In the forest above Viggiona, you can see trenches from the Linea Cadorna from the First World War. Higher still is Monte Carza with its giant yellow bench.
From Cannero to the Castelli
In season, boats also run from the harbour in Cannero Riviera to the Castelli di Cannero, the two castle islands you saw from above from Carmine. Since 2025, they have been open as a museum. If you start early, you can combine the hike and island visit in one day. In summer, it’s best to book the boat trip in advance.
Carmine Superiore is a lovely addition to the major excursion destinations: no long drive, no admission, but a view of the lake you won’t know from the lakeside promenade. You can stay with us in a mobile home on Lake Maggiore, in a holiday apartment with lake view or on a pitch for motorhome, caravan or tent.
Insider tips from locals
To make your trip extra special:
- We recommend combining Carmine Superiore with a section of the Via delle Genti. The village is small; the charm lies in the old path.
- We recommend sturdy shoes, as the paths are stony and have many steps.
- In summer, we recommend starting early. Later in the day, it gets very warm on the slope.
- If you hike to Cannero Riviera, the nicest way back to Cannobio is by boat.
Questions and answers
On the slope above the western shore of Lake Maggiore, around three kilometres south of Cannobio. The village belongs to the municipality of Cannobio.